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Linen Look

What is linen look fabric?

Linen look fabric is a fabric with the natural, slightly irregular appearance of linen, but it does not always contain real linen. The term mainly refers to the visual effect: a woven surface with subtle slubs, a dry hand feel and a relaxed, natural character. Depending on the composition, linen look fabric can feel crisp, soft, fluid or more structured.

Linen look fabrics are relevant for summer clothing, interior textiles and decorative items because they combine a natural appearance with different care and performance options. Some qualities contain linen, while others are made from cotton, viscose, polyester or blends designed to imitate the texture of linen.

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Specifications

  • Construction Usually woven, often plain weave or linen-like weave with visible slubs
  • Composition Can be linen, cotton, viscose, polyester or blends
  • Fabric weight Commonly around 120 to 280 g/m², depending on composition, weave density and intended use
  • Stretchability Usually little to no stretch, unless elastane is added
  • Abbreviations LI = linen, CO = cotton, CV or VI = viscose, PES = polyester, EL = elastane

Properties of the fabric

Linen look is usually a woven fabric, often in a plain weave or linen-like structure with visible yarn irregularities. These slubs and thicker yarn sections create the typical natural surface. Real linen is never completely even because flax fibres occur in bundles, and many linen look fabrics imitate this irregular effect.

The behaviour of linen look depends strongly on the fibre composition. Cotton or linen blends feel more natural and crisp, viscose blends create more drape, and polyester blends usually crease less and are easier to maintain. The fabric usually has little to no stretch unless elastane is added.

Applications

  • Summer shirts and blouses.
  • Loose trousers and shorts.
  • Dresses with light structure.
  • Skirts with a natural look.
  • Curtains and cushion covers.

Care instructions

  • Wash linen look fabric usually at 30 to 40°C, depending on composition and finish.
  • Wash darker colours inside out and with similar colours.
  • Air drying is preferred to help reduce shrinkage and creasing.
  • Iron at low to medium temperature, depending on the fibre content.
  • Pre-washing is recommended when shrinkage could affect the final size.

Certificates

  • OEKO-TEX Standard 100 may be available depending on the specific article.
  • GOTS may be possible for qualities made with certified organic cotton or organic linen.

Practical tip

Check the composition before choosing a linen look fabric, because the appearance can be similar while the behaviour is very different. Use viscose-rich qualities for more drape and cotton, linen or polyester blends for cleaner structure.

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Written by

Dave Van der Steen Nooteboom Textiles

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