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Linen

What is Linen?

Linen is made from flax, a natural bast fibre found in the stem of the plant. The fibres are separated, processed and spun into yarn before being woven into fabric. Because flax fibres occur in bundles, small slubs and variations in yarn thickness are common and do not automatically indicate a defect.

Linen is commonly woven in a plain weave, although other constructions are possible. It can be used as pure linen or blended with cotton, viscose or polyester to change its drape, crease recovery and care properties. Linen becomes stronger when wet, but it can shrink if it is washed or dried at excessive temperatures.

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Specifications

  • Construction Usually woven in a plain weave
  • Composition Pure linen or blends with cotton, viscose or polyester
  • Fabric weight Within the Nooteboom Textiles range, we currently see Linen qualities mainly around 165 to 255 g/m²
  • Stretch Little to no natural stretch
  • Abbreviations LI = linen, HL = cotton-linen blend, CO = cotton, CV or VI = viscose, PES = polyester
  • Appearance Natural lustre, visible yarn irregularities, crisp texture and characteristic creasing

What are the properties of Linen?

Linen fibres come from the stem of the flax plant and belong to the group of natural bast fibres. The fibres are relatively strong and create fabrics with a dry, crisp character and visible natural irregularity. Linen absorbs moisture well, while weave density strongly influences how airy or structured the finished fabric feels. The fibre has limited elasticity, which is one reason linen develops its characteristic creases during wear.

How does Linen feel?

Linen usually feels dry, cool and slightly crisp rather than soft and stretchy. The surface often has small slubs or irregularities that give the fabric its recognisable natural appearance.

Untreated linen can initially feel firm, while washed or stone-washed qualities feel noticeably softer and more relaxed. Cotton blends generally add some softness while retaining much of the linen-like surface character.

Applications

  • Summer shirts and blouses
  • Loose-fitting trousers
  • Unlined dresses and skirts
  • Lightweight jackets
  • Tablecloths and napkins
  • Tea towels and glass cloths
  • Curtains and Roman blinds
  • Cushion covers

Care Instructions

Linen is usually washable at 30 to 40°C, depending on the colour, construction and finish. Avoid overloading the washing machine, as deep folds can become difficult to remove. Air dry while slightly damp and reshape the fabric before drying. Iron at medium to high temperature while the fabric is still damp, provided the care label allows it. Avoid prolonged storage in humid conditions because cellulose fibres can be affected by mildew.

Certifications

European Flax or Masters of Linen certification may be available for linen made from traceable European flax. OEKO-TEX Standard 100 may also be available, depending on the fabric and its finishing treatments.

Practical Tip

Pre-wash linen before cutting because the fabric may shrink during its first wash. Straighten the grain before placing the pattern pieces, as loosely woven linen can shift out of shape.

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Written by

Dave Van der Steen Nooteboom Textiles

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