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Lace

What is Lace?

Lace is a general name for fabrics with an open, patterned structure. Modern lace is often produced as a warp-knitted fabric on a Raschel machine, using a net-like base with additional yarns that form the design. Elastic yarns can be included to create stretch lace for lingerie and fitted garments.

Lace can also be created through embroidery, weaving or other knitting techniques. Etched lace is made by embroidering cotton yarn onto a temporary base fabric, which is later dissolved so that only the embroidery remains. The final appearance depends on the size of the openings, the density of the motifs and the type of yarn used.

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Specifications

  • Construction Usually warp-knitted, embroidered or woven with an open patterned structure
  • Composition Commonly polyamide, polyester, cotton, viscose or blends, sometimes with elastane
  • Fabric weight Within the Nooteboom Textiles range, we currently see Lace qualities around 90 to 285 g/m²
  • Stretch Little to no stretch in rigid lace; moderate to high stretch when elastane is included
  • Abbreviations PA = polyamide, PES = polyester, CO = cotton, CV or VI = viscose, EL = elastane
  • Appearance Openwork surface with floral, geometric or abstract motifs, often transparent between the patterns

What are the properties of Lace?

The defining characteristic of lace is the combination of yarn-built motifs and open spaces rather than a continuous closed surface. Warp-knitted lace can create complex repeating patterns while remaining relatively flexible, while embroidered lace builds motifs onto a base fabric or temporary support. The primary textile source also describes etched lace, in which cotton embroidery remains after the temporary base has been removed. The final handling depends strongly on motif density, yarn type, construction and whether stretch is built into the fabric.

How does Lace feel?

Lace can feel soft and flexible or firmer and more structured depending on the quality. Fine open constructions feel light and delicate, while denser motifs create more body and a more pronounced surface.

Polyamide-containing stretch lace can feel more elastic and close-fitting, while cotton-rich lace generally has a drier and more natural hand. Embroidered qualities can feel more raised because the motif sits more prominently on the surface.

Applications

  • Sleeves and yokes for blouses and dresses
  • Overlay layers for dresses and skirts
  • Bra cups, briefs and bodysuit panels
  • Bridal bodices, veils and sleeve sections
  • Neckline and cuff inserts
  • Decorative panels in camisoles and nightwear
  • Stretch lace waistbands and trims

Care Instructions

Lace should usually be washed at 30°C on a delicate programme or by hand, depending on the composition and construction. Place delicate lace in a laundry bag to reduce snagging and distortion. Do not bleach. Air dry flat or hanging without stretching the fabric. Iron at low temperature on the reverse side, preferably with a pressing cloth.

Certifications

OEKO-TEX Standard 100 may be available depending on the specific article. For lingerie, nightwear or garments worn directly against the skin, check the certification and product class for the individual fabric.

Practical Tip

Cut lace according to the motif rather than only following the straight grain, especially when matching scalloped edges or repeated patterns. Use fine pins, a sharp needle and narrow seam finishes to avoid damaging the open structure.

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Written by

Dave Van der Steen Nooteboom Textiles

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