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Gabardine

What is gabardine fabric?

Gabardine is a tightly woven twill fabric with a fine diagonal rib on the surface. The fabric is known for its smooth appearance, firm structure and good shape retention. Because of the dense weave, gabardine often feels more compact and refined than many standard twill fabrics.

Gabardine is mainly used for garments that need structure, durability and a clean finish. Depending on the fibre content and weight, it can be suitable for trousers, skirts, blazers, uniforms and outerwear.

View Gabardine collection

Specifications

  • Construction Woven fabric, twill structure with visible diagonal ribs
  • Composition 100% wool, 100% polyester, or wool/polyester blend
  • Fabric weight Within the Nooteboom Textiles range, we mainly see Georgette between 85-255 g/m²
  • Stretch No stretch, woven fabric
  • Abbreviations WO = wool, PES = polyester
  • Appearance Sleek, formal, visible diagonal rib structure

What are the properties of Georgette?

Georgette is traditionally produced with highly twisted yarns in both warp and weft, creating its characteristic crêpe texture. The grainy surface can be strengthened further through a crêpe or granite weave. Compared with smoother lightweight woven fabrics, Georgette has more surface grip and visual texture. Its fine construction provides movement and drape, while the yarn twist gives the fabric a slightly firmer character than chiffon.

How does Georgette feel?

Georgette feels lightweight, slightly dry and noticeably grainy rather than completely smooth. The surface has a fine crêpe texture that gives the fabric more tactile character than chiffon.

Despite this texture, Georgette still drapes fluidly and moves easily. Polyester qualities generally have a consistent surface and retain the characteristic dry, softly textured hand feel.

Applications

  • Suit trousers and suits
  • Jackets and coats
  • Skirts, such as A-line skirts and straight skirts
  • Uniforms and workwear
  • Raincoats, with coating

Care instructions

  • Wash gabardine usually at 30°C or 40°C, depending on fibre content and finish.
  • Wash inside out to help protect the surface and colour.
  • Pre-wash gabardine before cutting when shrinkage could affect the final size.
  • Air drying is preferred to reduce creasing, shrinkage and surface wear.
  • Iron on the reverse side at low to medium temperature, depending on composition..

Certifications

Wool gabardine may be available with RWS, Responsible Wool Standard, or Mulesing-Free certification. Polyester variants may be available with OEKO-TEX Standard 100.

Practical Tip

Gabardine has a front and back side that can look similar, but the diagonal ribs run in a specific direction. Pay attention to the direction when laying out the pattern pieces for a consistent final result.

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Written by

Dave Van der Steen Nooteboom Textiles

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