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Denim

What is Denim?

Denim is a sturdy woven fabric in a warp-faced twill construction. In classic denim, the warp yarns are coloured, often indigo dyed, while the weft yarns are white or lighter in colour. This construction makes the front side look more blue and the reverse side lighter.

The diagonal twill line is an important visual feature of denim. Traditional denim is made from cotton, but modern versions can also include polyester or elastane. Rigid denim has little to no stretch, while stretch denim is often used for fitted garments that need more freedom of movement.

Go to the Denim collection

Specifications

  • Construction Woven fabric, usually warp-faced twill
  • Composition Usually cotton, cotton/polyester blend or cotton with elastane
  • Fabric weight
    Within the Nooteboom Textiles range, we mainly see Denim qualities between 200 and 445 g/m²
  • Stretch Little to no stretch in rigid denim; moderate stretch when elastane is added
  • Abbreviations CO = cotton, PES = polyester, EL = elastane
  • Appearance Diagonal twill structure, darker face side, lighter reverse side, firm and casual look

What are the properties of Denim?

Denim is traditionally woven as a warp-faced twill, meaning the warp yarns dominate the face of the fabric. In classic blue denim, these warp yarns are coloured while the lighter weft yarns are more visible on the reverse, creating the familiar difference between both sides. The twill construction gives denim a firm, durable structure while still allowing more movement than a comparable plain weave. Fibre composition, weave density and finishing determine whether a quality feels rigid, flexible or already softened.

How does Denim feel?

Denim generally feels firm, compact and slightly dry when new. Rigid qualities have a particularly structured hand feel, while pre-washed or softened denim feels more flexible.

Cotton provides the characteristic natural feel, while polyester or polyamide blends can change the surface, stability and handling. Stretch denim feels more flexible when elastane is included.

Applications

  • Jeans and trousers
  • Jackets and overshirts
  • Skirts and dresses
  • Dungarees and pinafores
  • Workwear-inspired fashion garments
  • Bags and accessories
  • Structured casual wear

Care Instructions

Denim is usually washable at 30 to 40°C, depending on the composition, dye and finish. Wash denim inside out to help reduce colour loss and visible abrasion. Wash dark denim separately or with similar colours, especially during the first washes. Do not bleach. Air drying is preferred, as high-temperature tumble drying can cause shrinkage, colour fading or loss of elasticity in stretch qualities.

Certifications

OEKO-TEX Standard 100 may be available depending on the specific article. Organic cotton, recycled cotton or recycled polyester variants may have additional certifications, depending on the fabric.

Practical Tip

Pre-wash denim before production when shrinkage or colour bleeding may affect the final result. For garments with visible panels, cut all pattern pieces in the same direction to keep the twill line and colour appearance consistent.

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Written by

Dave Van der Steen Nooteboom Textiles

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