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Crêpe

What is Crêpe?

Crêpe is a general name for fabrics with a grainy surface structure. In woven crêpe, this effect is often created by overtwisted yarns or by a crêpe weave, which gives the fabric its characteristic irregular texture. The result is a fabric with more surface movement than a plain, smooth weave.

There are several crêpe variants. Crêpe de Chine is a thin, supple plain-weave fabric with fine crosswise ribs and crêpe yarns in the weft. Crêpe georgette has a grainy texture created by crêpe yarns in both warp and weft, sometimes strengthened by a crêpe or granite weave. Crêpe satin combines a satin weave with crêpe yarns in the weft, creating one side with a more textured appearance and one side with a smoother, more lustrous look.

Go to Crêpe Collection

Specifications

  • Construction Usually woven, but crêpe effects can also occur in knitted fabrics
  • Composition Can be made from polyester, viscose, wool, silk or blends, depending on the quality
  • Fabric weight Within the Nooteboom Textiles range, we mainly see Crêpe qualities around 85 to 255g/m²
  • Stretch Little to no stretch in woven crêpe; more stretch possible in knitted crêpe or when elastane is added
  • Abbreviations PES = polyester, CV or VI = viscose, SE = silk, WO = wool, EL = elastane
  • Appearance Grainy, slightly textured surface, often fluid with a matte to softly lustrous look

What are the properties of Crêpe?

The defining feature of crêpe is its grainy surface, but the method used to create this effect can vary considerably. Highly twisted yarns can contract and create an irregular texture, while special crêpe or granite bindings can produce a similar visual effect without relying entirely on crêpe yarns. Because crêpe is a fabric family rather than one fixed construction, individual qualities can range from thin and fluid to more compact and structured. The surface is generally less smooth than satin or poplin and often has a matte or softly textured appearance.

How does Crêpe feel?

Crêpe usually feels slightly grainy or dry on the surface, although the exact hand feel depends strongly on the variant. Fine apparel qualities can feel soft and fluid, while more compact constructions have greater body.

The textured surface means crêpe does not usually feel completely smooth. Crêpe Satin is an exception in that one side can have a more textured appearance while the opposite side is smoother and more lustrous.

Applications

  • Blouses and tunics
  • Dresses and occasionwear
  • Skirts with movement
  • Wide-leg trousers
  • Scarves and lightweight accessories
  • Fluid layers in fashion garments
  • Soft tailoriing
  • Knitted crêpe styles for tops and dresses

Care Instructions

Crêpe should usually be washed at 30°C or on a delicate programme, depending on the fibre composition. Fine viscose, silk or wool crêpe may require hand wash or professional cleaning. Do not bleach. Avoid high-temperature tumble drying, as heat can affect the texture, handle or dimensions of the fabric. Iron at low temperature on the reverse side, preferably with light steam and without pressing the texture flat.

Certifications

OEKO-TEX Standard 100 may be available depending on the specific article. For children’s clothing or skin-contact garments, always check the certification and class per fabric.

Practical Tip

Test the drape and recovery of crêpe before cutting, because different crêpe qualities can behave very differently. Use sharp scissors or a rotary cutter for lightweight crêpe, and avoid stretching the fabric while cutting or sewing.

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Written by

Dave Van der Steen Nooteboom Textiles

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